Down the Nile: Alone in a Fisherman's Skiff
while Rosemary Mahoney, in 1998, took a solo journey down the Nile in a seven-foot rowboat, she came upon smooth Egypt for herself. As a rower, she confronted crocodiles and testy river currents; as a feminine, she faced deeply-held ideals approximately overseas ladies whereas carefully ultimate open to real friendship; and, as a traveller, she skilled occasions that ranged from the funny to the hair-raising--including an come upon that started as some of the most scary of her lifestyles and ended as an edifying and chastening lesson in human nature and cultural false impression. even if she's assembly Nubians and Egyptians, or discovering connections to Westerners who traveled up the Nile in past times--Florence Nightingale and Gustave Flaubert between them--Mahoney's expert interest in regards to the international by no means ceases to captivate the reader.
"A pilgrimage approximately pilgrims and holy areas that isn't merely enlightening but in addition very funny." -Paul Theroux (on The Singular Pilgrim)
"Mahoney is a superbly powerful catalytic agent: she is going to eire and simply makes the rustic occur round her." -Jonathan Raban (on Whoredom in Kimmage)
"Mahoney, who has been rowing for 10 12 months, brilliantly juxtaposes an account of her personal palm-blistering hours at the Nile....with the diary entries of 2 Victorian travelers-Gustave Flaubert and
The epithet, “the sea of the river that flows the incorrect way.”) The north-flowing Nile that I observed in Cairo used to be extensive and low coloured and dumpy, with piles of trash spilling down its jap financial institution with the targeted glance of getting been lately unloaded from a municipal truck. a few of the trash was once on hearth, sending into the air slim strings of fishy-smelling yellow smoke. This city strip of river — crowded with powerboats, ferries, journey boats, deepest yachts; spanned through 4 or 5 nice.
asserting, “Ya saalam!” and creating a nice express of his ask yourself at this magical software. He lifted the binoculars gingerly to his face back and slowly, rigorously, mounted his attractions on a felucca that was once simply rounding a bend upriver. His mouth hung open in ask yourself as he stared, his damp lips and large white enamel glowing underneath the massive eyes of the binoculars. His hairy Afro, a coiffure infrequent in Egypt, had a bowl-like dent in it in the back of his head and used to be studded with bits of dried leaves.
develop into rotisseries of broiling vines and crops. Even the water, reflecting the solar, appeared sizzling. once i stopped my lunch, I climbed again into the rowboat and headed down the river. Amr had deliberate for us to spend the evening at Barlooly Island, simply north of Kom Ombo, and we agreed to satisfy there at round six o’clock. i attempted to guarantee Amr that if he overpassed me quickly, he shouldn’t fear; i'd by no means be a ways prior to him. He smiled in resignation, wanted me success, and started.
Dried horse manure from the bottoms in their flip-flops, or snoozing slumped within the airborne dirt and dust in entrance in their store with their mouths placing open. It used to be purely after they observed you coming that they hopped up and wear the masks of bravado and romance, a masks that when only one day in Luxor grew tedious. you're looking for me, wonderful girl? Come and glance my store. at no cost. We move dancing to-night. Smile, you're in Luxor. Welcome again. You take note me? the following i'm, omit woman. leave out Madame. Mrs. Madame. Mrs.
Had dictated to her: within the identify of Allah the Merciful and Compassionate, I the undersigned claim that i purchased a fishing boat from El Shazly Fouad from the city of Luxor from the local of Azaneyya Il-Qibly for the volume of 900 kilos Egyptian merely. And right here I claim that. Signed: the vendor: Shazly Fouad the customer: Rosemary Mahoney the 1st witness: Madeleine Stein The attorney: Ahmed Mossad I passed the digital camera and the money to Shazly Fouad, and Madeleine snapped a photo.